Once again I love the versatility of rainbow fabric. From one piece of fabric, I was able to make a block that required 8 colors!
This was the starting point: 1” octagon, small triangles and the technique from my Loving Hugs pattern series.
The second row of triangles added.
And the third row.
A fast growth in scale of the block…
The final block measures 14”.
You could make a few blocks and join them into a table runner, or a few pillows, or make more and sew a big quilt.
I wanted to test a new interfacing and I turned this block into a BEAUTIFUL bag -more about it soon!
Last year I made a similar block (see below – I stitched only two rows of triangles around the center octagon) and I had a problem!
What color to use for binding? Nothing from my stash seemed appropriate, so I chose to not bind it at all.
I love the shape of the octagon, sometimes you want to keep it (instead of turning it into a square) so here is how I finished this coaster. The usual technique used for this is simple and easy and I think most quilters know it. I just added a little detail that ensures perfect edges of the piece!
Here is what you need to do, if you want to follow this technique.
You need:
- your octagon block
- a piece of batting, the same size as your block
- backing fabric, 1½” wider and 1½” longer than your block. I used a solid fabric (to keep the directions clear), but a beautiful print fabric would be better.
Cut your backing in half. Put the two sections right sides together; sew the long edges with 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving a few inches unstitched in the center (long enough for easy turning the piece to the other side).
Layer your block with batting and quilt your block as desired. Yes, you can quilt only through the two layers, my machine has no problem.
If you prefer quilting through the backing, too, then just stitch all around the octagon, at 1/8” from the outside edges of the octagon.
Trim the batting even with the top.
Here is my quilted piece.
Center the quilted (or unquilted) top+batting over the backing, right sides together.
Sew along all the edges with 1/4” seam allowances.
Trim off the excess backing, using the top piece as a template.
Clip the corners.
Turn the piece right side out through the gap in backing.
Flatten the piece, making sure you have nice edges and corners. Press the edges.
Close the gap in the backing, stitching by hand.
If you did not quilted the top+batting, quilt now through all the layers.
Isn’t easier to use a single piece of fabric as backing?
NO!
You could use only one piece of fabric for the backing (the same size as the front fabric). In this case, the gap needed to turn the piece right side out will be on the edge of the piece and you will have to finish the edge stitching by hand (see the picture below).
I prefer to have the gap on the back of the quilt, this ensuring PERFECT edges stitched by machine!
I LOVE my little rainbow piece.
I hope this is helpful!
This no binding technique works on any shape! Actually, it is the best (and easiest) to use when you have quilts in unusual shapes (see the pictures below).
If you want to learn how to sew the rainbow blocks above, click below.
Happy quilting!
I first learned this technique many years ago from Katharine Guerrier a top British quilter, teacher and author. She has just been awarded Honorary Membership of The Quilters’ Guild of the British Isles in honour of her contribution to our craft.
Love all of your patterns and quilting.
Wow…I never thought of this approach to backing a block. (I dislike ladder stitching the turning “gap” since that edge never looks exactly like the others.) Thanks!
What a cute project! I have completed a few projects using the “no binding” method, only I used a single piece of backing. Your method is so much better! My future projects will have much cleaner edges now. Thank you! Love all your patterns and quilting designs. You are very inspirational!
I just love the block you made and the new method of no-binding. Great idea
wow getta
this may be a simple solution for “no backing”
but more than simple…it’s simply perfect”
had just made six octagon placemats
and bound them all!!!
never again….thank you so much for sharing
Pauline from Canada
so sorry geta…meant to say no binding
instead of no backing
Pauline
I love this pattern great way to use up some scrap material and make fun hostess and Christmas gifts. I have some heat resistant batter and plan on making some trivets.
Thanks, Geta
Whether a large piece or a small one, this idea is simply wonderful! I agree about the edge never looking quite right when done the traditional way. I used to leave a 1″ piece on both top and bottom pieces just so I had something to turn, but that left a larger piece that, if done in a pale shade, showed through. The hand stitching, though small, still showed. Now all is nice and clean. Lovely!
Thanks for sharing your always welcomed tips!
Will this apply for a bottle shape, curvy edge?
Maureen, it works for ANY shape. Just make the backing big enough to cover the top of the quilt+1” (or 1 1/2”) then cut it in half. It works for odd shapes better than any other binding method. Think of a block in the shape of a star, with concave and convex angles.
Would like directions of octagon block.
Would like the directions for the octagon Block!
Great idea! I will plan to use your method. Thanks!
Thank you for your brilliant tutorial on your backing method and the effort you’ve made to show each step so clearly. I really love that we can all learn something new and that’s what makes our craft so exciting.
This is a great idea – I’ve doing that on small objects for years – its great for small wall hangings too. I often do a triple stich 1/4″ in from the edge and that gives the appearance of a self bind.
I’ve used this technique for lots of projects…have even suggested it for “in the hoop” machine embroidery designers…easier than trying to get a nice closing on the edge.
Found this method of no binding backing some time ago (could have been from you even) and it is one of the best “tips” that I have come across. I have even used prints that were so “busy” that you cannot even tell that there is a center seam on the back. I like to do some kind of stitching to further secure the back and front together so I will finish off with a decorative stitch around the piece going through all layers – then they don’t get separated “in the wash”.
What a wonderful tutorial. As always, your directions and diagrams are so clear. I will try this on wall quilts as well a small blocks, sometimes no binding is just the right look, and your method looks so nice. Thank you so much for your many helpful tips and lessons.
I am fairly new to quilting and am NOT good at bindings so this technique is very welcome. Thank you for all the information you so generously share. Sandra in Indiana
Thank you for another brilliant tip with making different shapes. I am learning so very much from you, that I love it. Thank you.